What comes to mind when one thinks of Asia? My first thoughts are markets teeming with counterfeit goods, intolerable heat and of course ladyboys. I have not been disappointed and have managed to experience all these at their best and worst.

The hustle bustle markets that sprawl from every street and alley way once nightfall hits are synonymous with Asia. However once you’ve seen one you’ve seen them all as they appear to sell the same goods for the same prices, leaving me wondering where they get these clearly mass-produced souvenirs. It is curious that these sellers don’t seem to advertise their wares as individual or better than the other million booky trousers on offer. Instead there seems to be a confirmed selling price that all stalls adhere to. I can imagine that their profit margins are considerable but you rarely see many people actually buying anything. This could explain the aggressive selling techniques employed in every stall. Not limited to markets the hard sell is deployed all over South-East Asia, particularly with taxis. Despite politely refusing the lift, taxi drivers will follow you and continue to insist that you cannot possibly walk, you need to take a ride in their taxi. I wonder if this hard sell comes out of a desperation to be able to afford to live their lives or if this technique is actually very effective with tourists.

Throughout Asia the heat takes it toll on travellers, exacerbated in cities by the constant moving between ice-cold air-conditioned buildings and the great outdoors. But Koh Rong Samloem, an island off the coast of Cambodia is a true reflection of the Asian weather. The lack of relief from the blaring sun and intense humidity creates a happy delirium for travellers when coupled with the endless white sand and blue sea. When the boat to take us back to the mainland finally arrived out of the ethereal mist that settled in the early evening, it was as if it had been sent to bring us back to reality. Being permanently hot and sweating in areas I did not even know could sweat is a small price to pay to experience Asia in all its wonderful and wacky forms. Besides, you can always have a cold shower/are forced to have a cold dip in the dark when the water and electricity cannot function simultaneously.

It would be wrong to come to Thailand and to not mention it’s famed ladyboys. When visiting a cabaret show there were a few things that struck me. Their brazen nature, their bold crowd interactions and the discrimination they openly talked about they face. After entering the show we were taken to our table and brought our inclusive free drink. Much to our surprise the lady boy explicitly gestured for a tip and wouldn’t leave until we had given a satisfactory amount. This hugely contrasts to other trades in Thailand where a tip is appreciated but never demanded. Being the only show in the whole of Chiang Mai perhaps they felt their monopoly allowed them to squeeze the foreign customers. However, the show was cheap at 350 Baht so this could just be their main source of income. Their interactions with the crowd are notorious for pushing individuals outside of their comfort zone for entertainment. Fortunately, as a girl, there was no danger to me, however one of my male friends was not so lucky being dragged on stage by one of the performers. Once the hysterics passed, caused by watching him be undressed, tied up and snogged to his visual displeasure, I was struck with a thought. In this day and age it would be completely unacceptable for a male performer to bring a woman on stage and violate them so blatantly. It was strangely bittersweet to see some of my friends be made to feel so uncomfortable in the way women do everyday – but it’s not a feeling I’d wish upon anyone. However this pales in comparison to the discrimination the ladyboys experience here. It has become so common that they felt the need to talk to us about it at the end of the show to raise awareness of their struggle. Nevertheless, the performance was absolutely fascinating and many times I questioned whether they were actually men.

Despite the rising numbers of tourists, South-East Asia retains its quirky individual nature and is a delight for those who choose to embrace it. As Dame Judi Dench expressed, “it’s like a wave, resist and it’ll knock you down, but go with the flow, and you’ll swim out the other side”.